The question we hear most about the Tank Must is not about the price or the dial. It is about the size. SM or LM? On the phone, on WhatsApp, in the showroom. And to be honest, it is also the most important decision with this watch, because the two sizes wear noticeably differently.
So I am writing down everything we have learned about it over the last few years.
The measurements
We offer the Tank Must in two sizes:
- SM (Small Model): 21 × 29 mm, strap width 15 mm
- LM (Large Model): 23 × 30 mm, strap width 17 mm
SM on the left, LM on the right. This is what the difference looks like in real life.
On paper that is only two millimetres in width and one in height. On the wrist the difference looks bigger than the numbers suggest. That is mostly down to the strap. The extra two millimetres of strap on the LM give the watch a lot more presence.
Worth knowing: both sizes are small by today's standards. If you are used to a modern 40 mm men's watch, even the LM will feel delicate at first. But that is exactly its charm. The Tank is not a watch that wants to be loud.
Who the SM is right for
The SM is the classic ladies' size and by far our best selling version. It sits flat, almost disappears under a blouse cuff and simply looks right on a slim wrist.
I would recommend the SM if
- your wrist is on the slim side, roughly under 16 cm around,
- you see the watch mainly as a piece of jewellery and want it to look fine,
- you like to wear it together with bracelets or other watches.
The SM is light, does not get in the way when you work and goes with a dress just as well as with jeans.
Who the LM suits better
The LM is the size we almost always recommend to men. It is still elegant and understated, but it does not look lost on a stronger wrist.
The LM is usually the better choice if
- you are a man or your wrist is about 16 to 17 cm or more,
- you want to read the time easily without looking closely,
- you want a bit more presence without wearing a big watch.
Some women choose the LM on purpose because it looks a little more confident. That works well, especially with a wider leather strap in black or brown. There is no right or wrong here.
A simple test at home
If you are unsure, take a piece of paper and draw two rectangles: one 21 × 29 mm and one 23 × 30 mm. Cut both out and place them on your wrist one after the other, where you would wear a watch. Look in the mirror, not just down at your wrist.
It sounds simple, but it works surprisingly well. Most people know within ten seconds which size feels right.
Even better, of course, is to try both sizes on. You can do that in our showroom in Offenburg. Just get in touch with Stefan and he will arrange an appointment with you.
Quartz or manual winding, does it matter?
Not for the size. Both movements come in SM and LM, and the case measurements are the same. The difference is in daily life: a quartz watch just runs, you do not have to think about it. A manual winding watch needs a few turns of the crown every morning. Some people love that little ritual, others find it a hassle. I will write a separate post about this soon.
What is the same for both sizes
Whether SM or LM, every Tank Must goes through the same process with us. Our certified watchmaker checks the watch for authenticity, opens it, cleans and services the movement and regulates it. On the vermeil models we have the case re-plated with 10 microns of 18K yellow gold. That is a much thicker layer of gold than a simple refresh and lasts accordingly.
You also get a certificate of authenticity and a one year warranty. We are flexible with the leather strap. If you would rather have brown than black, or a completely different colour, just let us know.
My advice in one sentence
If you are torn between the sizes and have a slim wrist, take the SM. If you are a man or like the watch a bit more present, take the LM.
And if you are still unsure, write to me. Feel free to send a photo of your wrist and I will tell you honestly which one I would choose.
Simon